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Marble Pool Coping And Deck Supplier in China -GeorgeStone

Turn Your Home Into The Pinnacle Of Elegance With The Sleekest and Most Beautiful Of Marble Pieces.

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Marble Coping & Deck Edge Design And Drip

Marble is a soft material, so some standard coping and deck edge styles might not be good for durability. Here are the options we recommend.

Keep in mind, you can still customize the edge to your liking or ask for other standard edge styles not listed here.

Full Bullnose and Half Bullnose
Eased
Bevelled
Square
Drip Grooves
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Marble Pool Deck Pros And Cons

Our selection of marble stones looks the best with pool decks, but is it worth purchasing this kind of stone for such a task? Let’s go over it.

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Pros

Luxurious Appearance

Marble has a high heat resistance, which means it can withstand the intense sun exposure and Want to add to the elegant aesthetic of your home? You can do that by giving your pool deck a premium appearance as well. The veining patterns and color variations help give it a one-of-a-kind look.high temperatures common in pool areas without becoming too hot underfoot.

You can even get it to be extremely slip resistant, though that can be expensive based on what non-slip finish you pick.

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Pros

Easy To Walk On

Marble has a high heat resistance, which means it can withstand the intense sun exposure and high temperatures common in pool areas without becoming too hot underfoot.

You can even get it to be extremely slip resistant, though that can be expensive based on what non-slip finish you pick.

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Pros

Durability

Despite its delicate appearance, marble is a relatively durable stone- as long as you seal and maintain it properly, that is. It can withstand outdoor conditions and foot traffic reasonably well, making it a suitable choice for pool decks.

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Cons

Not Great Freeze-Thaw Cycles

Marble is dense but still very porous. It can absorb a large amount of moisture. When this moisture freezes and expands within the stone during cold temperatures, it can cause cracks, spalling (flaking or chipping of the surface), and other forms of damage. The repeated freeze-thaw cycles common in harsh winter climates can accelerate damage this way and shorten the lifespan of marble pool decks. You can get the stone treated to avoid this, but other stones like Granite offer this benefit naturally.

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Cons

Prone to Stains and Etching

Marble is soft, and porous, so it’s slightly open to staining from spills, chemicals, and certain substances like acids and oils. It can also etch or develop dull spots when exposed to acidic substances like citrus fruits or pool chemicals.

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Cons

High Upkeep Needed

While marble is relatively easy to clean, it does require regular sealing to protect its surface from stains and moisture damage. Not doing this maintenance task can lead to discoloration and degradation over time.

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Cons

Cost

Marble is generally more expensive than other stone pool deck materials, such as Travertine, Slate, Sandstone, Flagstone, Limestone or Quartzite. The other costs for keeping these stones can be rather high as well.

Certificates

We hold certificates necessary for a legitimate company, such as SGS, ISO, and Quality Production Management System.

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Frequently Asked Questions - About Stone Coping And Deck of George Stone

Information about copings and decks – Marble in particular, isn’t really easy to get online. So, we’ve compiled a little list from you with advice from our experienced crew. It should make the choosing process a little easier for you and help you get more insights.

These are the one’s we’ve been asked about most often from our customers.

Polished:

If you go for a polishing finish, you’ll get a surface that has been gradually smoothed with the help of special abrasives until it becomes shiny and reflective.

During the whole process, specialized polishing powders or compounds and buffing pads are used to increase depth and bring out the brilliance of the marble’s color.

Doing all this is a very labor-intensive process, and is done through special diamond-based tools and polishing compounds. That’s why you’ll find this polishing option to be the most expensive.

As for the feel of the surface – it feels smooth to the touch, so you can feel the luxury while also being able to appreciate it through the sheer look of the marble stone, with all its natural colors and patterns.

Honing:

If you’re sensitive to light or would rather not have your floor shine so much that it can’t even be looked at, this is the finish you want.

The stone gets honed with coarser abrasives than the ones used with polishing. The abrasives get finer throughout the process, which removes the high points of the stone and make a smooth texture.

This ensures that the surface comes out smooth with a matte finish, but without the shine. The overall look will be something softer than marble, without being glossy.

Despite that, the stone will still be able to pop and highlight its natural colors. Unlike its Polished counterpart, this kind of polishing is also easier to take care of, as the subtle texture helps keep minor imperfections hidden.

Sandblasting:

Now, this one isn’t as much of a fancy finish. Although, no less work goes into it.

Sandblasting marble includes blasting the high-pressure air and abrasive materials – including actual silica sand- to turn the surface of the stone into a textured, non-slip finish.

This kind of finish is rough to the touch, and looks the part as well. Since the process is so aggressive, albeit controlled, it creates a deeper and more pronounced texture.

The surface becomes visibly uneven. All in all, it has a natural, weathered look that goes well with a rustic or outdoorsy aesthetic.

Leathered Finish:

Unlike the other finishes, this one’s a bit more unique. It’s made by brushing the surface with special industrial brushes, to create a soft, textured finish that looks and feels like leather.

These brushes are tipped with either the fine particles of the incredibly abrasive diamond dust or silicon carbide.

To put it simply, it’s a combination of the smoothness of honed marble mixed with a bit of texture. It looks elegant, and still offers a decent amount of grip without sacrificing style.

Something worth noting about this type of finish is that it can help preserve the natural veining and color of the stone, rather than wearing down any characteristics that make it unique.

Tumbled Finish:

Among the other finishes, this one is one of the more complicated ones. It includes a lot of procedures and needs to be done carefully, to bring out an aged and textured look on the surface of the stone without damaging it.

To start with, the marble pieces are put into a rather large rotating barrel, along with abrasive materials like stones, pebbles or sand. Water is also added on occasion.

Once all that is done, the craftsmen will make the barrel rotate. This makes the stones tumble over each other while also grinding against the abrasive materials.

This friction wears down the sharp edges and smoothens the surface of the stone. At this point, the craftsmen will adjust the tumbling times as well as the abrasive contents used, if you ask for a specific level of finishing.

A longer tumbling time or using more coarse abrasives will get you a more rustic and textured surface, and vice versa.

Overall, this kind of finishing gives your stone an antiqued look, while offering slip resistance and keeps the effect consistent through the entire surface of the stone. This doesn’t come with hand-finishing techniques, as those have minor variations.

The surface of marble is naturally smooth. That means it can get extremely slippery when wet.

 

Besides applying coatings, getting the right finish is the next best way to make sure there’s enough traction to prevent slip and fall accidents. The standard finishes won’t work that well here, though. Here’s a list of the best options you can have:

 

  • Brush Finish:This is more or less just a variation of the Leathered finish, except traction is the priority here. A stiff-bristle brush  is dragged around on the surface of a wet, freshly poured marble before it fully cures.

 

During the process, the bristles make tiny grooves and texturing that allows water to better disperse and channel away to provide more traction underfoot.

 

  • Sandblasting Finish:This is the same process mentioned in the earlier question – it does a great job at getting rid of the slippery property of marble.

 

Sandblasting erodes and etches the top layer, creating a finely roughened, uneven texture full of microscopic pits and valleys that go a long way towards providing more traction, even when wet.

 

  • Chemical Etching Finish: While this finish is used less often, it can be decently effective.

 

A slightly acidic solution is put onto the installed marble, causing it to slightly dissolve and create dents on the very top layer of the stone. In a nutshell, this creates a surface profile with millions of tiny depressions that channel water.

 

This can work great for keeping any slip issues away.

  • Thermal Finish:Lastly, this particular finish can also help create an incredibly grippy surface.

 

The process uses intense heat from an oxygenated flame to thermally crack, dent, and roughen the once-smooth marble surface.

 

The expansion and contraction that result from this heating causes a large network of hairline cracks and craters to form, creating the perfect non slip surface.



Travertine is one of the more trending choices these days, so should you go for it or stick with good old Marble? This table will help you pick.

 

 

Feature

Marble

Travertine

Material

Metamorphic rock made of recrystallized carbonate minerals.

Sedimentary rock/terrestrial limestone formed by mineral deposits from water sources.

Appearance

Elegant, polished look with unique veining patterns.

Rustic, natural look with pitted and earthy tones.

Durability

Relatively soft on Mohs Hardness scale and can scratch or etch easily from pool chemicals and debris. Can also get affected by water and stains, as it’s more porous.

Moderately durable with more hardness than Marble, but it’s more porous and even prone to staining if not properly sealed.

Slip Resistance

Polished finish can be slippery when wet. Needs to be made with specific finishes to prevent slips.

Naturally textured surface provides better traction.

Heat Absorption

Traps heat more due to lack of pores. The dense composition also means increased thermal mass.

Slightly less denser than Marble, but has significantly higher porosity, so it’s cooler to the touch. Lighter colors also help reflect heat, staying cooler underfoot.

Water Absorption

Low absorption rate because of slightly lower porosity.

Highly porous and absorbs water readily

Freeze Thaw Resistance

Decent resistance to freeze-thaw cycles due to its dense and compact structure.

Moderate resistance, but can be susceptible to cracking or spalling if water penetrates and freezes inside the porous structure.

Maintenance

Requires regular sealing and polishing to maintain shine and prevent staining.

Needs periodic cleaning and resealing to prevent fading and staining.

Cost

Generally more expensive due to rarity, mining and transportation costs, as well as labor-intensive processing.

More affordable option compared to marble because it is more readily available and requires less processing



Yes, like most other natural stones, marble coping and decking can still be fixed if it’s damaged or stained. But there’s a caveat – with its relatively low hardness rating of 3-5 on the Mohs scale, there are a few special considerations. Those include:

 

  • Stain Removal:Since marble is a porous and calcium-based stone, it can easily stain from substances like oils, acidic liquids, and organic materials.

 

These surface stains need to be removed with pH-neutral and non-abrasive marble cleaners or poultices- ones made from baking soda and water should work. You can use a lot of chemical marble cleaners for minor stains, so long as they’re not abrasive.

 

Mild acidic solutions, such as a diluted mixture of hydrogen peroxide and ammonia will work, and it’s better to not use anything stronger, or at least do so carefully. This is to ensure you don’t end up dealing with etching.

 

  • Damages: Damage fixing isn’t as much of a concern. You’ll likely need to do it more than a few times in high traffic areas, since marble is relatively soft and brittle.  

 

For the most part, minor cracks and chips can be taken care of with marble filler or epoxy resin that matches the color and texture of the marble. In terms of serious damage or deep staining, you’ll need to do resurfacing.

 

Meaning, you have to grind down the top layer of the marble with special tools and diamond abrasives. This is better done with a professional’s help, as you also need to have materials at hand to hone and polish the surface.

 

Replacement is also not something you can do on your own, as the process is labor-intensive.

 

The existing pieces need to be removed carefully, and the new ones need to be honed and polished well so they match with the rest of the coping and decking.



Even doing standard maintenance and cleaning of marble copings and deckings needs some thought. You need to follow certain techniques and be careful to preserve its beauty and prevent damage.

 

  • Regular Upkeep: Sweep away any loose dirt, debris or leaves as often as you can, especially in areas with heavy foot traffic like pools. Since marble is soft, there’s a chance that these substances can grind into the delicate surface if they stay on it long enough with everyone walking over them.

 

You might end up getting scratches or stains. For general cleaning, use a pH-neutral, mild detergent or stone cleaner specifically designed for marble. Avoid acidic or abrasive cleaners if you can.

 

  • Stain Removal:You can remove fresh stains fairly easy without having them stick – just blot them up right away with a clean, absorbent cloth or paper towels.

 

For set-in stains, you can use a poultice paste made from a marble cleaner or hydrogen peroxide mixed with a dry powder like baking soda or kaolin clay.

 

Apply the paste over the stain, cover it with plastic wrap, and let it sit for 24-48 hours to draw out the stain. Once the wait’s over, gently remove the dried paste and rinse the area with clean water.

 

  • Sealing: Marble is a porous material, so sealing it is a must if you want to keep stains and moisture damage away.

 

You’ll need to use a high quality sealer for this, and as for the frequency for applying the sealing – you’ll have to look it up the package of the seal. The last part can change based on the quality of the sealing product.

 

  • Self Polishing:If your marble hasn’t gone through too much abuse, you can take care of the polishing yourself.

 

To do so, use a marble polishing powder or cream and a clean, dry cloth or polishing pad.

 

Apply the polish in a circular motion, working in small sections. Rinse thoroughly with clean water and dry the surface.

 

  • Protective Measures: Consider putting coasters or mats under planters, legs of poolside or patio furnitures, or other heavy objects to prevent scratches or indentations on the marble surface.

 

Don’t let anything heavy drop on the surface or drag anything on it either – as that can still cause minor chips and thin cracks.



Unfortunately, marble can only somewhat handle salt or chlorinated water. Here’s a breakdown of its effects in both regards.

 

  • Pool Surrounds And Installations: Chlorinated pools, saltwater pools or just pools with any chcmicals can create etching, pitting and fade the color of marble over time.

 

Its surface might become rougher and lose its polished appearance.

 

  • Coastal Installations:For Coastal Outdoor Installations: There are even more factors to take in here.

 

Salt air, sea spray, and the humidity increasing the amount of moisture can speed up the aging of stones.

 

The salts can easily penetrate the marble’s surface, causing flaking, pitting and ruining polished finishes.

 

What You Can Do To Prevent: Now, you can’t get perfect protection from elements like these. However, proper installation techniques, using a breathable membrane under the marble, getting a darker variety, regular cleaning and sealing might reduce the extent of the damage if you still want this kind of stone. For full protection, you’ll simply have to get other natural stones granite, and slate. Granite, with its hardness, and slate, with its low porosity, are less susceptible to damage from chemicals and environmental factors.



  • Water Absorption: As mentioned earlier, marble can easily absorb a lot of moisture over time. If water gets trapped directly under the marble decking slabs, your stones might break down a lot faster or lose their color.

 

You’ll need to make smart use of penetrating sealers, while also ensuring proper sloping and drainage.

 

  • Freeze-thaw cycles: Moisture trapped under the marble decking can have the same effects as it does when coming in contact with the outward-facing surface of the marble.

 

If you’re in a cold climate, it’s probably best to avoid this decking material altogether. To make things work out better, you could also keep the substructure well-insulated and heated.

 

And just to prevent any edge cases, you could use a moisture barrier or waterproof membrane underneath to keep moisture from penetrating.

 

  • Mold And Mildew Growth: If moisture is easily able to pool under the decking, that damp and shaded environment can give birth to mold and mildew infestations.

 

And with marble being so absorbent, all that can easily lead to staining of the material. To keep this from happening, you’ll need to ensure that your substructure is properly ventilated.

 

Installing drainage channels or scuppers is also a good idea. Lastly, you’ll need to use mold-resistant materials for the substructure – composite or pressure-treated wood can work well for that and you have to put mold-resistant sealing or coating to the underside as well.

 

  • Extra Maintenance: If your deck’s construction allows too much water to pool under, that can generally cause issues with the substructure or framing.

 

As a result, you’ll have to constantly take off the deck slabs to keep the underside of your deck from rotting and deteriorating early.

Yes, thick marble deck is more than good enough for driveways or walkways. Marble is dense and durable, so it can handle the load. You need to keep the slippery nature in mind, though. Without the right finishing, that’s just asking for accidents whenever the surface gets wet.

If you’re going to have vehicles (especially heavy ones) moving over the decking often, you need to take precautions to prevent cracking and chipping, as well. It won’t be an issue as long as you reinforce the decking with a strong sub-base. This will distribute the weight of the vehicles more evenly.

Staining is also another concern you need to keep in mind – tire marks and staining from hot tires or oil/fluid leaks from vehicles can stick if not taken care of early.

So, case-in-point, you might need to regularly check on and maintain the marble decking if you want to use it on a driveway or walkway with vehicle traffic.

To properly slope your marble deck or patio for drainage, follow this advice: First of all, you need to make sure the surface tilts down enough – at least a quarter-inch drop for every foot of distance.

 

This tilt allows water to flow off to somewhere safer, instead of pooling. That’s definitely not something you want when your decking is made of marble.

 

You’ll then need to angle the tilt away from any buildings so the water runs towards areas meant for drainage, like drains, low collection points, or any low-ground plants you have near your patio.

 

While you’re at it, you’ll need to maintain an even, gradual tilt across the whole area without any dips or valleys. If you don’t do so, the water could get trapped. Besides all that, you’ll also need to keep tiny gaps between marble sections.

 

That’ll let the stone have some flexibility for whenever it expands and contracts for temperature changes. And lastly, you have to put on waterproof barrier underneath, especially if the marble is laid over a base like concrete.

 

Don’t forget to secure the edges to keep the tilted surface from shifting away over time.

It varies too much to give an exact estimate. For most natural stones, you’d need to reseal every 1 to 2 years.

However, things like direct sunlight exposure, humidity levels, temperature extremes as well as foot traffic can change that.

Marble in shaded areas that doesn’t get used too often can sometimes go 2-3 years between resealings. However, marble decking around a pool that gets constant sun exposure and wet conditions from splashing, and the chemicals from the pool itself will likely need to be resealed annually.

You’ll know it’s time to reseal when the marble starts looking dull or etched and is losing its polished, vibrant appearance. Water may also begin to absorb into the surface rather than bead up into droplets. Another telltale sign is that the stains you used to easily get rid of are taking more effort.

Marble, despite being durable, is also delicate. You can’t simply go about cutting it in any way, as that’d ruin the precise and polished final look the marbles are known for.

Any random blade or tool from your garage won’t work, either. Besides wet saws and angle grinders, you’ll also need heavy-duty diamond blades, which have actual tiny diamond particles embedded along the rim.

That makes them good for chewing through dense marble like a hot knife through butter, leaving clean, precise cuts every time. Even with all that, you’ll need expertise to avoid chipping up the expensive marble.

If you’re interested in getting these to DIY the task as a casual homeowner, you also need to consider this: considering the price of all these tools, is it worth the investment?  

If we’re talking a massive outdoor space, having your own gear might save you some dough in the long run compared to getting your supplier install the stones for you. But for a small project, you might be better off just leaving it to the experts.

A lot of factors come into play if you want to make sure the color fits in perfectly into your space.

 

Of course, your personal preference comes first, but you’ll also need to make sure that the stone fits well with the overall look and feel of your yard space, including the color of the pool interior, any landscaping, and other hardscape elements like patios or walkways.

 

There are other considerations, too. For one, how much level of contrast do you want between the coping and the pool water itself? Lighter shades of marble, like creamy beiges or soft whites, create a more subtle, understated look.

 

Darker colors that clash against the water, like deep blacks or rich browns make for a bolder, more dramatic, and contrasting look. Another big thing you need to think of is the climate, and the level of maintenance and comfort you’re looking for.

 

Lighter colors tend to reflect more heat, which can be beneficial in warmer climates, while darker shades absorb more heat and may get quite hot in direct sun.

 

The latter also offers a small but handy benefit of ensuring that any staining or etching caused by pool chemicals and environmental factors isn’t immediately obvious.

You’ll need to pay around $10 to $60 per square meter or $1 to $6 per square foot. We provide these base prices based on our most affordable and most expensive natural stones, as well as piece pricing from reputable quarries.

The price we offer includes the estimates of processing as well. The price can go up past the minimum based on the quality and type of marble chosen, the thickness you want, along with any extra customizations or detailing.

If you choose the sourcing location yourself, that can also make the price vary. You can get your stones for a drastically cheaper price if you go for cheaper finishes- polished finishes are the most expensive. As for the colors themselves, Blue or Multicolor ones are among the more pricier options we have.

Most commonly, marble coping comes in two thicknesses: 2 centimeters (roughly ¾ of an inch) and 3 centimeters (about 1 ¼ inches).

The size of the coping itself, like length and width, will depend on the manufacturer and what you need for your project.

You’ll find them in various rectangular shapes with a finished edge profile. There’s no actual standardized size, as a lot of factors go into that, such as adjustment for rounded curves.

As an example, you can get stone copings with a 4” x 9” x 1.5” – this is the best choice for bullnose tumbled stones that need to be put around rounded curves with distinct waterline shapes.

With these dimensions, the copings can be cost effective, since they don’t need to be cut too much and stay practical without sacrificing style.

You need to consider a lot of questions to pick a good marble coping supplier. How is the stone quality? Is the pricing competitive and better than other options? What about the reliability of the transportation process starting from the sourcing and the installation?What about the durability of the stones themselves?

You’ll probably be running around in circles before settling with something, as copings are still fairly niche on the online space.

It’ll be hard to find good info on places like Reddit, and most suppliers are expensive – the stone supply industry in general is still in the process of moving over to the online spaces. If you leave the work with George Stone, we can help.

We’ll look through our own in-house quarries, as well as industry contacts that have the perfect quality control. We’ll even consider how ethically the stones are supplied – so you won’t be left out in the dark if the supplier gets shut down later on because of bad practices.

If that happens, you won’t be able to repair your stones with perfectly matching options when damages occur. We’ll use our own transportation and take care of the logistics.

To top that off, you can communicate with us and take care of the entire selection through simplified chats with our veteran crew. That way, you’re only considering one final cost, and not needing to bother about the little details.

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